​Design

The process begins with careful attention to design. I use 3D programing to draw a model of each door before any wood is cut, which allows the customer to see in better detail what the end product will look like. It also gives me an opportunity to work out any possible issues that may arise during the construction process and to generate an accurate list of measurements to work from.
I have a collection of 3D drawings that I use as a starting point when working with new customers, in order to narrow down the design that will work best for their home. Once we determine the general design, I generate a couple of new drawings to further refine the concept until it is ready for construction. At this point, a materials deposit is used to order all lumber and other materials, and the door is put on the shop schedule.

Example of 3D drawing

Materials

The woods I use for door construction are Douglas-fir, African or Honduran mahogany, sapele, quartersawn or rift white oak, walnut, and cherry. All of these are remarkably stable woods and are naturally resistant to warping from humidity changes. Doors up to 36" wide are generally built either from solid lumber or a three ply lamination for extra stability, depending on wood choice and door thickness. Doors 42" and wider a generally laminated for thickness onto a genuine mahogany stave core, which creates the most stable wood door available. The mahogany is wrapped on all sides with thick laminations of the wood of your choice, giving the appearance you want along with the stability and longevity that only a genuine mahogany door can provide.

Joinery

Traditional Mortise-and-Tenon and floating tenon construction are used throughout. Many doors built this way have lasted centuries, even with the poor glues available at the time. The joint itself, if properly fit, takes the weight and strains directly, instead of relying on the glue. My method for cutting a perfect tenon is to machine it slightly larger than the mortise in which it will fit. Then the fine-tuning is done with a rabbeting hand plane, honed to a razor edge. With this plane, I can take off as little as .001 inch, giving me the ability to achieve a "piston" fit, allowing only enough room for glue.

Finishing

Doors are available ready to stain, primed for paint, or fully stained and finished. My doors are finished by Nicole Smith Finishing, a fellow member of the Artistic License Guild and incredibly talented fine furniture restoration and finish specialist. See her work here: Nicole Smith Finishing

Hardware

Locksets fitting for an Arts-and-Crafts door are available from a variety of manufacturers, including Craftsmen Hardware, Rocky Mountain, Baldwin, Emtek, and others. Most are available in both mortise lock styles or the more common tubular style. Mortise locks offer a traditional, old-world feel, as well as added functionality and security. Tubular locks are widely available from more manufacturers and are a cost-effective alternative to mortise locks.
Hinges are available in the same finishes as the handlesets. I use heavy duty, solid brass ball bearing hinges for all exterior doors, insuring smooth operation for the life of the door.